Technique Guide
Daytime Deep-Drop Swordfishing
The ultimate deep-sea challenge. Hunt broadbill swordfish in 450-600m during daylight hours.
Quick Reference
Target Depth
450-600 metres
Strike Zone
Up to 200m above bottom
Key Equipment
Lights, breakaway weight, firm bait
Skill Level
Advanced - Serious offshore commitment
WA's Emerging Swordfish Fishery
Western Australian waters are on the brink of becoming a world-class destination for daytime swordfishing. The continental shelf and canyon systems off the West Coast provide ideal habitat. Local experts believe it's only a matter of time before this fishery opens up in a big way. The fish are there - you just need to know how to find them.
What is Daytime Deep-Drop Swordfishing?
This isn't like chasing marlin on the surface. Swordfishing is a completely different beast - you're dropping baits into the abyss and hunting fish that spend their days in near-total darkness. It's one of the most challenging and rewarding pursuits in game fishing.
Broadbill swordfish feed at extreme depths during daylight, typically between 450-600 metres. The technique involves lowering a lit, rigged bait to the bottom, breaking away the weight, and drifting the bait through the strike zone while watching for the subtlest of bites.
1. Finding Your Ground
Before you drop a bait, you need to know where to look. Success starts with finding the right piece of ocean.
The Target Depth Range
Focus your search between 450 and 600 metres. This is your sweet spot. While the exact location isn't everything, you must be in the right neighbourhood to have any chance of encountering a swordfish.
Reading Your Sounder
Your sounder is your window into the deep. You're not looking for individual fish marks - you're searching for two key environmental signs:
Scatter (Bait Layer)
A visible layer where small fish, squid, and plankton are concentrated. This is the dinner table - the feeding zone where swordfish hunt. Look for a thick, dense layer of life.
Hard Bottom Structure
Look for a transition to harder bottom on your sounder display. This indicates the structure and habitat where swordfish hold. Your goal is to find where both features overlap.
Key Insight
Don't think swordfish are glued to the bottom. The strike zone can extend 200 metres above the seafloor. In 550m of water, you're fishing a 250-metre column from 300m down to the deck.
2. Gearing Up
Deep-drop fishing requires specialised thinking, but you may not need a whole new arsenal to get started.
Rods & Reels
While dedicated swordfish rods with sensitive tips offer better bite detection, they're not essential to start. Experienced local anglers have caught their first swords on standard 60kg trolling gear.
What matters most: A reel with serious line capacity (800m+ of PE6-10) and smooth, reliable drag.
Critical: Short Top Shot
Use a monofilament top shot of only 50-60 metres. This is essential - less mono means less stretch, giving you better bite detection and making it easier to snap your breakaway weight. Beginners using long mono top shots struggle to break the weight free.
The Rig Components
Hooks
Both J-hooks and circle hooks work. What matters most: super sharp, not buried too deep in the bait. The hook needs to find purchase when the fish commits.
Lights - Essential
No light, no bite. Use two lights: a small light 2m from the bait to illuminate it, and a larger beacon light higher up to draw fish in from distance.
Breakaway Weight
A standard house brick works perfectly. Tie it to the hook bend using a short piece of cheap 10lb mono. When you jerk the rod at the bottom, this snaps and frees your bait.
3. Bait Selection
Good news: swordfish aren't picky eaters. They'll hit most things. But how you present the bait is critical.
| Bait | Rating | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Arrow Squid / Calamari | ★★★★★ | Top choice. Can be caught locally (Cockburn Sound). Firm and durable. |
| Australian Salmon | ★★★★ | Excellent second option. Good oil content attracts fish. |
| Tuna Belly Flaps | ★★★★ | Tough and durable. Holds up well to abuse. |
| Mahi Mahi Belly | ★★★★ | Good action in the water. Excellent durability. |
The Golden Rule
Firmness over species. Swordfish are slashers - they whack and stun prey with their bill before eating. If your bait is soft and a piece tears off, the fish won't come back for the rest. Your bait must survive the initial attack.
4. The Hunt: Technique & The Fight
This is where patience and attention pay off. The bite is subtle, and the fight is unlike anything else.
The Drop Sequence
Deploy to Bottom
Lower your rig until it touches down. Your sounder should confirm depth.
Break Away
Give several sharp jerks or fast winds. This snaps the 10lb mono, releasing the brick and freeing your bait to drift in the strike zone.
Watch the Tip
Now you wait. Keep your eyes on the rod tip. A swordfish bite isn't a screaming run - it's incredibly subtle, often just a few taps.
The Textbook Sign
After the taps, a pool of slack line suddenly appears on the surface. The fish has grabbed the bait and is swimming up at high speed. Start winding immediately to come tight.
Bleached Line = Swordfish
If you get taps but miss the hookup, check your line where the fish hit. Using squid bait? If the line has turned white, you were almost certainly hit by a swordfish. The acids in their mouth bleach monofilament. You're in the right spot - reset and go again.
The Fight
Swordfish have soft mouths, and pulling the hook is a constant risk. Drag management is critical.
Drag Settings
Set your drag to 10-12kg at strike when the spool is full.
This seems light for a big fish, but here's why: as the fish takes line and your spool diameter shrinks, drag pressure increases significantly. Starting at 10-12kg creates a buffer - by the time the spool is half empty, you'll be at 18-19kg. That's plenty of pressure without risking a pulled hook at depth.
Be Ready at the Boat
Swordfish are known for being wild and aggressive in the final stages. The endgame is often chaotic. Stay alert, keep hands clear of the leader, and be ready for anything.
5. The Golden Rule: Preparation
The most consistent advice from experienced sword fishers: do your work at home. Time on the water is for finding fish and watching your rod tip. Any time spent rigging baits or sorting tackle is fishing time lost.
Pre-Trip Checklist
- Rig all baits with hooks and skirts, vacuum-seal and freeze. Don't rig baits on the water.
- Prepare breakaway weights - bricks pre-rigged with 10lb mono leaders, ready to clip on.
- Test all lights - fresh batteries, confirmed working. No light = no fish.
- Check all leaders - measured and regulation-compliant.
- Inspect terminal tackle - crimps, hooks, swivels all in perfect condition.
- Study charts - identify target areas in 450-600m range before leaving port.
- Weather window - you need stable conditions for a full day offshore.
Related Deep-Water Species
While chasing swords, you may encounter other deep-water species. Click for full details.
Ruby Snapper
Deep-water snapper found 100-400m. Different technique but similar grounds.
Yellowfin Tuna
Surface to mid-water pelagic. Often in same offshore zones.
Mahi Mahi
Surface feeder around FADs and current lines. Good while drifting.
Samsonfish
Mid-water structure fish. Common on offshore pinnacles.
Deep Dropping Gear Setups
Need rod, reel, and line recommendations for deep dropping? Our gear guide includes setups suitable for targeting swordfish and other deep-water species.
View Gear Guide →Key Takeaways
Depth
450-600m, strike zone up to 200m above bottom
Sounder Signs
Scatter layer + hard bottom = target zone
Bait Rule
Firm bait that survives the initial slash
Bite Sign
Subtle taps, then slack line = fish swimming up